Fairtrade cotton

Fairtrade cotton, carried by the Fairtrade/Max Havelaar label, certifies that a garment's cotton was bought from its farmers at a guaranteed minimum price, plus a premium paid to their cooperative. It's a fair trade label: it protects the grower's income, not the fabric's composition.

Fairtrade cotton in practice

The label acts at the very top of the chain, in the field: a floor price that protects farmers when world prices collapse, a collective premium the cooperative invests (schools, equipment, irrigation), and a ban on child labor on certified farms. On a garment's label, look for the Fairtrade logo with a cotton mention.

What the label doesn't say: it certifies neither the fiber's organic character nor the finished product's safety. Fair trade cotton can be conventionally grown, and organic cotton can be bought under conditions that protect no one. The two logics often stack, though: a large share of Fairtrade cotton is also grown organically, and that combination says the most about a garment.

The reading grid for responsible custom merch comes down to three questions: was the grower paid fairly (Fairtrade cotton answers that one), is the fiber organic (GOTS and organic cotton answer that one), and is the material recycled (GRS). Three labels, three different questions: none replaces the others.

What to remember

• Fairtrade/Max Havelaar guarantees the cotton farmer a minimum price and a premium: a label about income, not material.
• It says nothing about organic farming or garment manufacturing: it stacks with GOTS rather than replacing it.
• On the label, look for the Fairtrade logo with a cotton mention.